Cleansing oil
In the evening, oil or balm dissolves sunscreen and makeup. Micellar water does not.
There are ten steps. Six actually matter. Here's which ones, and in what order.
Thinnest to richest, water-based before oil-based. A thick texture leaves a film: whatever goes on after it just sits on top. The order of the ten steps below is nothing more than that rule applied.
Thirty seconds between layers is enough.
In the evening, oil or balm dissolves sunscreen and makeup. Micellar water does not.
Oil dissolves makeup and sunscreen, foam rinses off the rest. Together they make the double cleanse, the foundation of the whole Korean method.
AHAs for texture and tone, BHAs for pores. Never daily: past twice a week you wear down the skin barrier instead of clearing it.
Nothing to do with the astringent toners of thirty years ago. A Korean toner hydrates and primes the skin to absorb everything that follows. Apply it while skin is still damp.
Lighter than a serum, more concentrated than a toner. It's the most Korean step on the list, and the first one to skip if your toner already hydrates well.
The one step that targets something specific: niacinamide for dark spots, retinol for lines, hyaluronic acid for hydration. An ampoule is a more concentrated serum, nothing more.
Fifteen minutes, not thirty: past that the sheet dries out and pulls back the water it just gave. Don't rinse, just pat in the excess.
The skin there is much thinner and produces no oil. Worth it for fine lines and under-eye hollows; unnecessary if your face cream is already gentle enough for the area.
It seals in everything that came before. Emulsion if your skin gets shiny, cream if it feels tight, sleeping mask one or two nights a week for a richer finish. Without this step, what you applied before just evaporates.
The other nine steps repair. This one prevents. It accounts for most of the difference you'll see a year from now, and it's the only step nothing else replaces.